Sewing Silk/Linen

DSCN0819My coat fabric is unique. It has the look of a raw silk with a lot of variance in the threads, yet it has a definite linen quality to it as well. The nicest part about this blend is that it Does. Not. Wrinkle. It is also machine washable!! My original cut was probably 3.5 yards, but I used a large chunk for a jumper back when my girls were babies. That jumper went into the wash often to remove the typical infant fluids, and it washed like a dream! I probably won’t do that with this coat, but it is nice to know that’s an option should I need it.

I am using some of my dress fabric for the back side of facings, etc. to have enough of the plaid for the pockets and tabs. It will be a rose colored handkerchief linen (#3)from The Sewing Lounge, and I can’t wait for it to get here. The samples I received were wonderful, and I really wish the melon colors were good with my skin tone, but alas, I am an atypical redhead that has pink toned skin instead of the more usual peaches or olive, so the melon and coral, though beautiful were not for me. The winter white wool crepe, (#2) however, was drool worthy, even if it was $55/yard. I wish I dared make white pants….that would be something with the Peace Sweater…but I digress.

dscn0786

My biggest challenge thus far has been planning the layout to work with the fabric I have available. The tricky part has been matching the plaid. DSCN0825In some cases it isn’t possible, and in others I’ve opted to either go with the dress fabric, or jettison a design detail. I hope to make it all work, without glaring omissions or obvious faux pas. My first issue was the bound buttonholes, which had to be constructed of scraps. They ended up being off on the vertical, but the punk is so faint, I hope it isn’t noticeable. The fabric is quite tweedy, but isn’t raveling, and it is a dream to press!Ā 

Thus far I haven’t had to rip much, and Ms. Necchi, tuned up and back to form, is handling the plaid well. The main body is now complete, the next challenge will be working out the sleeve layout, hopefully leaving enough fabric for matched pockets.

My fabric arrived yesterday!!!!Ā DSCN0826

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20 thoughts on “Sewing Silk/Linen

    1. Thanks Margaret! I got the sleeves cut yesterday, they won’t match across, but there was no way to match both, so the sleeves will be identical mismatches. I did get the pockets worked out to match across, so they won’t be glaring, that was a relief. This cut and sew on piece at a time is a little nerve racking!šŸ˜³

      I’m nearly to the point where I can start using the contrast, so that will be much easier!

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    1. I actually have no buttons yet! I did see some blue ones at Hobby Lobby that really caught my eye, but didn’t have the fabric along to check the shades. I need to empty my button box too, and see if I have something in there. šŸ˜„

      Worst case, I’ll go somewhere in San Francisco before I actually wear the coat, that would be so terrible to have to visit a real fabric store…I may just forget to go to Hobby Lobby….

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      1. Well, I was thinking that you might want to pick coat buttons that would coordinate with your dress fabric? Hope you can get to Britex Fabrics in SF when you are out there. Give yourself plenty of time! If you make any major purchases, you can ask them to send all in the mail. It saves suitcase space and that hefty California tax!

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    2. And, I am glad to hear that someone Whose opinion I value doesn’t think buttonholes need to match. Sometimes I get a little carried away…that inner 4-H person starts whispering in my ear!

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    1. I got the last bits cut out of the plaid yesterday, so I think I can just sew now. I thought I had a pocket issue, but I think it will be OK…we’ll see if anyone notices it in the next photo. šŸ˜Š

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  1. I didn’t understand half of your post as it was written in Seamstressese – but I do know a fabulous looking outfit in the making when I see one and I totally understood the Does Not Wrinkle – which is my favorite kind of fabric!! Can’t wait to see the whole ensemble Kathy!! šŸ˜€

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    1. Well, if I am completely honest, it will crease a little, however, when it fell off the hanger in a wind gust and lay crumpled on the floor for several hours, I rehung it, and by morning it was nearly back to normal. Had I hung it in the bathroom when I took a shower, I’m sure it would have been perfect again. The dress will not be so nice, so I may underline it, at least the back; I’ve heard that can really decrease the wrinkling on 100% linen.

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