Interfacing Blues

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Indeed I HAD the blues, I finally solved them by ordering an entire bolt of Pellon Hair canvas from Walmart. I picked it up on Friday, and I have no idea how long it will take me to use the entire 10 yards, but at this point I don’t care! 

During my wait, I sewed most of the lining together and pieced a nice little flat piping trim (thanks Karen at Fifty Dresses) to go between the lining and facing. I also completed the coat back. Now that I have the interfacing I can sew in order instead of jumping around trying to make things work while waiting for a package to arrive.

 

I am doing what we used to call machine tailoring in 4-H. I will do everything that makes sense, with pins and machine, to get this coat out the door ASAP, but do hand stitching on the most important parts. I pin basted the interlining, much like you would do a quilt, removing a few pins as the actual seams were sewn. The interfacing is machine basted in, then trimmed out once the seams are in place. I will pad stitch the under collar by hand, and after doing a test, decided on bound buttonholes, instead of machine ones.

The heft of this Melton is one reason for the contrasting under collar that you see above, (along with my beloved hair canvas.) In RTW, it is not uncommon to put a lighter weight fabric underneath, and in many cases you will see something that looks like a light weight felt. I elected to pull this scrap from my stash and use it. It looks nice with the both the main fabric and the lining, though it will never show. It is a wool flannel, so will form beautifully when I add the padding stitches. I lost most of my sewing time on Sunday afternoon, so the bound buttonholes are only half finished, but I was able to work on the collar this evening and got quite a bit of it finished.

Hopefully, by the end of the week I will be close to finished. Good thing, because there’s more snow on the way!

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8 thoughts on “Interfacing Blues

    1. It’s a combo of cotton viscose, cotton, polyester, wool and horsehair. It is used in men’s suits all the time, and is the best interfacing for wool jackets and coats. It looks stiff, and feels stiff, but it drapes with the fabric…very cool stuff!

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    1. The layers were a bit challenging, but only one buttonhole is a little off, and since it is on the bottom, I decided to leave it in. Her other coat is in tatters, so speed is necessary, which doesn’t seem quite right for a wool coat, but it’s cold in MT!

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