While the sewing has been really very easy on this coat, I still managed to first put the under collar where the upper collar belonged, and then put the upper collar on the wrong side of the lining before I got it right. The good news…the collar fit beautifully, with no easing or tuck issues, and the same was true for the sleeves.
While the ripping slowed my progress considerably, I kept at some of the small things throughout the bits of free time over the weekend, and hope to finish early this week.
This pattern was a little different, in that it had you attach the under collar to the coat and the upper collar to the lining. The collar was stitched as a separate seam, then the facings. A little different, but it worked pretty well, and you didn’t have quite as many layers to sew through. I did stitch the collar seams together on the inside after pressing, so they stay where they belong.
I did get the under collar applied the jacket the first time around, and then pulled out my quilting scraps to build the shoulder pads. For this one I used a fairly light pad consisting of four layers. The bottom was horse canvas, followed by two layers of quilt batting, with interlining in between them. Girl #1 doesn’t like large shoulder pads, but the coat required some structure, and I think this will do the trick! I love my shoulder pad pattern, it has 6 different types, and you can adjust to suit your project and your preference. One of the best patterns I ever bought! (Simplicity 7021)
I also did the pockets this weekend, they were patch, but I wanted to put lining on the inside, so used some old black cotton/poly to line the back side. I’m hoping that will make the edges just a little less vulnerable to constant wear. I also did the coat’s sleeve and bottom hemline, since they were short jobs too.
That left me with the actual finishing seams, attaching the lining and collars together and doing the top stitching. I finished the seams, and then basted the collar edge before pressing and top stitching. I’m afraid that I still got a little bit of roll. The plaid under collar doesn’t quite show, but I wish now that I have pulled the upper collar over a full quarter of an inch, because the edge looks lighter in some places, due to the plaid, even though the navy goes past the edge. For the front facing, I decided not to press first, because the seam is so bulky and required so many pins to set, that I was concerned I’d have those annoying pin marks all up and down the front. So I did a really good pin job and left the facing overnight, then top stitched it this morning followed by a press sans pins. That worked really well, so will finish the other after work.
After that, I’m down to the lining hems, buttons, and opening the button facings. Shipping on Tuesday might just happen!