Toward the Finish Line

Progress, moving forward, advancing. After deciding that today was going to be a “coat day,” I changed my bobbin and thread before retiring, as an incentive to act instead of just ponder.  The question at hand:  What is the best method for attaching the facings to the coat? After a quick review of the tailoring section of my Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, I knew I was definitely making things up as I went along. The solution?

I inspected my pieces again, and started by sewing the front facings to the back facing I had drafted, and pressed. More contemplation was necessary, so I inserted the sleeve heads made of lambswool scraps and did a full press on the sleeves. I have a Sunbeam Professional iron that does vertical steam; it and a rolled hand towel allowed me to shrink in a bit of fullness, while keeping the sleeves nice and round. I love this iron, and I love the price tag…$35.00, and I think it will keep up with any Rowenta just fine!! By the time I was finished with the sleeves, I had a plan.

I pressed the collar seam on both sides so that everything was laying nice and flat.

I sewed the collar and collar band on the one side with a square edge, trimmed it and turned it, also pressing.

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I attached the whole mess to the coat, being very careful to abut the notches to the proper spots on the lapels, then pressed that seam open. Because I sewed the collar band and its facing to the collar, applying the front and back facing was going to be…creative.

To attach the facings, I did three separate seams. The right front facing was first, stopping the seam where the tab extends out from the collar band. (note the pin in the photo below) A quick turn established that I was close enough to the tab that any gap could be closed from the inside. Success!

I moved on to the back facing, again stopping where the collar and collar band met the lapel. Finally, I moved to the left front facing. The photo below illustrates the pinning technique I have adopted. The horizontal pins are on the seam line, and the vertical pins prevent slippage when the horizontal pins are pulled. I can push the horizontal pins out with my presser foot if I keep the speed down, which allows them to stay in place until the last possible moment.

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And, finally, after grading the seam allowances and pressing, The front is ready to be top stitched.

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Interlining and lining sounds like a piece of cake after this!

 

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