I have been dividing my time between the wedding quilt and my coat. At the moment we are working in black thread, so it’s a coat day. Actually, I spent most of one week hand stitching, because I decided to pad stitch the collar and the collar band, and I like what I’m seeing so far. It is amazing how much effect those stitches can have on a piece of fabric, and they really don’t take that much time to do.
The collar is looking pretty good after the initial trim and clip job. The Marfy pattern has two separate pieces, and the difference in sizing is noticeable. It didn’t cause any trouble putting the collar together, and oh my goodness what a wonderful turn job it creates. The seam line is consistently on the under edge, with about 1/8 inch to spare from the actual fold. There will be no seam showing anywhere on this one! Such a small thing makes quite a difference, and it made the topstitching a breeze!
This collar band is unusual on a coat, so there is no real advice about how to handle it in the regular sewing resources I have. It made sense to me that if I had a regular tailored coat, the collar would be one piece, and pad stitched, so I decided to implement that on the collar band. It didn’t take long to do, and now the only thing left to do is to make the windowpane opening for the bound buttonhole, if I don’t chicken out! Because of the way the tab is constructed, I would have to do a windowpane opening before attaching the facing, so EVERYTHING will have to align perfectly, or this will be a disaster….not sure if I’m up to that. (I wasn’t 🐓!)
I pinned the collar to the collar band, but needed to work through whether to attach the band/collar to the jacket, then the collar band facing, or do a traditional shirt collar treatment. Maybe it doesn’t matter, however, I had no intention of ripping out the neckline, so left it sitting.
In an effort to keep moving forward, I decided to start basting lambswool to the lining, and got some of those pieces completed before taking off on a 4-H trip. If I need more time to consider the collar band, I can start sewing the lining. 🙂
Upon my return, I decided to baste the collar to the collar band, and sew the facing to them. That included the part of the band with the bound buttonhole, which was a pretty tight turn, but it looks good, even before a press.
The collar band is now pinned to the jacket, and it looks like everything will match up pretty well. Next question is how to handle the front and back facings, but I’ll put that collar in while I think about it. I can always go back to the lining :). Best of all, my coat is starting to resemble that lining drawing I fell in love with!
Keep enjoying the summer, and a Happy Independance Day to my American friends. Take a break and retread our Declaration…it is an amazing essay in itself!